Chinese-originated Filipino food for Lunar New Year celebrations
Lunar New Year is typically a celebration and annual holiday in Chinese culture. But, like Spain, China has had an influence over Filipino culture and food.
I’m late to the game but the Chinese Lunar New Years day was celebrated this past weekend - in New York City’s Chinatown, we saw flagrant displays of the color red and bursts of confetti that littered the streets and pavement. People dressed in red, which is considered an auspicious color that brings prosperity and wards off negative energy. Mooncakes were eaten and hóngbāo (red envelope) with money were handed out for good fortune. But Chinese communities aren’t the only ones celebrating the Year of the Dragon celebrations. The Philippines is known for its prevalent mixtures of influences from Spain (did you know that Tagalog has over 2,000 borrowed Spanish words?!). But over the years, Chinese influences have subtly made their way into Filipino culture - and we see this with the Tsinoy (Filipino-Chinese) New Year.
Chinese presence in the Philippines
Bordering the archipelago is the South China Sea - the part of the ocean that also coasts along Vietnam, China, Malaysia, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. It has historically influenced foreign relations amongst these Asian countries, including China and the Philippines (not too long, I shared a report by the AP on a Philippine supply boat allegedly being attacked and surrounded by Chinese Coast Guards in the South China Sea). But if we look back in history, long past the modern disputes, the US and Spanish colonizations, there was a rich and thriving economy between China and the Philippines in which a plethora of goods like silk, porcelain, and beeswax were traded through the South China Sea trade route. As a result, China’s presence has greatly influenced many aspects of Philippine culture - particularly the culinary arts.
Pancit (or a can be spelled “pansit”) is a noodle dish popular in the Philippines, and one of my favorite dishes growing up. Although there are many variations of this dish, it’s typically characterized by the thin rice noodles, pan-fried vegetables and chicken - sometimes, I love to squeeze a lemon here and there to add that boost of zest and bring out the flavor. It quickly became popular in the Philippines when the earliest Chinese merchants settled in the islands. According to Pepper, a Chinese man likely made it from rice flour to make a quick lunch. Given its convenience, Filipinos may have picked it up and made variations - evolving to what is now the beloved national dish. The word “pancit” itself comes from the Hokkien (variety of southern Min Chinese language) name “pian e sit”, which translates to “something conveniently cooked”.
Shumai (also spelt like “siomai” and “siyomai”) is a type of steamed dim sum - a thin wrap typically filled with shrimp, pork, or mushrooms but varies greatly depending on the culture or region. The origins of shumai are largely unknown, many sources claiming it originate from the Yuan dynasty seven hundred years ago in northern China, whilst it is said to have come from the Ming or Qing dynasty in Inner Mongolia. Either way, it’s a very popular dish in Chinese cuisine, particularly as a street snack in Hong Kong. Now, it’s also a popular dish to eat, especially during Holiday festivities like Tsinoy Lunar New Year.
Lumpiang Shanghai is the famous egg roll which can be found in many Filipino parties and celebratory events. The name may suggest that this popular finger food originated from the Chinese city, Shanghai, but its actual origins are largely unknown. According to the Tasting Table, it is said that Chinese traders from the Fujian province immigrated and introduced egg rolls, which then adapted and evolved to the beloved lumpia we eat at Filipino dinner tables today. The name comes from the Hokkien words “lun”, which means moist, and “pia”, which means pastry. Making lumpia in the Philippines is considered a labor of love - much like how making dumplings in Chinese culture is an auspicious tradition. They’re made with egg wrap and filled with minced pork or pan-friend vegetables, then constructed into slim crepe-rolls, and deep fried until golden and crispy.
Siopao, which in Hokkien translates to “hot buns”, is a steamed bun filled with meat - very similar to the Chinese baozi. Characterized by a white doughy bun steamed until chewy and filled with meat, there are different variations of this delicious bun: growing up, my favorite bun is the siopao asado which is filled with braised shredded pork or beef. The original dish, baozi, was said to be invented by military strategist Zhuge Liang in third century China, who filled a mantou (a plain steamed dumping) with meat.
Taho is a type of Filipino soy bean pudding that’s typically comprised of warm silken tofu, sweet arnibal syrup, and tapioca pearls. Known to be sold in tin buckets hanging on the ends of bamboo sticks by peddlers on the streets shouting “TAHOOO” early in the mornings, it’s the ultimate comfort street snack in the Philippines. According to Esquire PH, the name itself, taho, comes from the Chinese word douhua (豆花), which is the name of a similar soft pudding. Legend says it was accidentally discovered during the Han Dynasty in China when a chef, who was attempting to make soy milk, curdled the tofu by mistake from adding impure salt. It was then mixed with red beans and almond syrup, becoming the popular Chinese snack douhua. It made its way to some of the other South East Asian countries in addition to the Philippines, like Malaysia and Indonesia, where it’s typically bought by early morning laborers and students on their way to school.
Which one of these Chinese originated foods are your favorites?
What else is new?
Justice for Vilma Kari - Vilma Kari, a Filipina woman, was attacked in Midtown Manhattan on March 29, 2021. She was kicked by the attacker, who yelled “You don’t belong here, you Asian”. The attack, amongst the many with anti-Asian sentiments, sparked fear and outrage amongst the Asian community during the pandemic (read the New York Times piece here). On Feb. 21 at 2pm ET, a plea sentencing will be held at Manhattan Criminal Court, where Vilma will be giving her impact statement face-to-face with her attacker.
What: Official Asian Hate Crime guilty plea sentencing of Vilma’s attacker
When: Wednesday, Feb. 21 at 2pm ET
Where: Manhattan Criminal Court
100 Centre St.
Part 42, 13th Floor, Room 1313
How to attend: RSVP with this link